Left around 7:30, walked 21 km, arrived around 1:00.
It was a beautiful walk. It was cool. There were so many colours. The mountains up ahead had a purplish tinge to them. There were dark clouds over the mountains and the sun was shining from behind.
The last 2.5 km to Rabanel de Camino was a well worn uphill trail. It was almost like walking up a staircase made of stones and tree roots. It was a very pleasant walk, but my feet hurt.
Stayed at Refugio Gaulchelmo. It is cold but very nice. Kept meeting up with Steve from Texas and Heidie from Hawaii. Had dinner with Steve, Dora from Denmark and another couple from Denmark.
Talked for quite awhile with the hospitalaros about why we were walking the camino. They are volunteers from Costa Rica. Very nice couple.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Sept. 23, 2010 - Villadangos del Paramo to Astorga
Walked 23 km to Astorga. Must have walked extremely slow. Left at 6:45 but didn´t get there till around 3:00. Guide book suggested staying at San Javier Albergue. Had to walk almost through Astorga to find it. It is one of the nicer Albergues. It is next to the cathedral and Gaudi´s castle.
There is a lot to see in Astorga! However I just walked around Gaudi's castle but did not buy a ticket to go inside. Did not go into the big Cathedral either. I just was not in the mood for exploring, went for a snooze instead.
Went to 7:00 mass, which was very nice. The nuns sang most of the service (even played the organ). Then went for dinner with Jolinda & Al from California and a Japanese man who did not speak English. It was a nice evening, although for pilgrims we were a little late getting back. The vouchers we got from the albergue for dinner were for the Gaudi hotel, which was quite a step up in class compared to what pilgrims usually get (almost on par with the parador, only much friendlier).
There is a lot to see in Astorga! However I just walked around Gaudi's castle but did not buy a ticket to go inside. Did not go into the big Cathedral either. I just was not in the mood for exploring, went for a snooze instead.
Went to 7:00 mass, which was very nice. The nuns sang most of the service (even played the organ). Then went for dinner with Jolinda & Al from California and a Japanese man who did not speak English. It was a nice evening, although for pilgrims we were a little late getting back. The vouchers we got from the albergue for dinner were for the Gaudi hotel, which was quite a step up in class compared to what pilgrims usually get (almost on par with the parador, only much friendlier).
Sept. 22, 2010 - Leon to Villadangos del Paramo
Didn´t get away from Leon till 9:00. That is late. I felt like I should have been 10 km down the road. It felt good to be walking and once again in camino world.
I am glad I stayed at the parador. It was very interesting and a good experience. I thought about it quite a lot as I walked. Last night (around 9:00) I was sitting in the lounge sipping wine, eating calamarie, listening to soft relaxing music, and watching the people come and go. They didn´t look anything like the pilgrims I had been spending my evenings with for the past 3 weeks (all good pilgrims would probably have been in bed). From the looks I was getting from the other hotel guests, it was obvious I really didn´t belong there in my walking clothes and flip flops (that didn´t stop me from enjoying it though).
I had read somewhere that pilgrims are to detach from the material world. I have definitely experienced that in the last 3 weeks, however, I am having a hard time letting go of the material comforts. The contrast between sleeping a house made of mud and straw to staying in a luxurious parador boggles the mind. It is interesting to note though, that in the mud and straw house there was much laughter and camaraderie, more excepting of the people around you (even those that snored). At the Parador everyone looked so sad and preoccupied. I did not talk to one single person other than the waitress who was not very friendly and only talked to me because she had to.
I thought, how is it that this place which was originally built as a refuge for paupers and pilgrims in need was turned into a place for only the wealthy and elite?
Walked 19 km to Villadangos del Paramo. Arrived around 2:00. After showering and sitting for awhile I wished I would have gone further.
I am glad I stayed at the parador. It was very interesting and a good experience. I thought about it quite a lot as I walked. Last night (around 9:00) I was sitting in the lounge sipping wine, eating calamarie, listening to soft relaxing music, and watching the people come and go. They didn´t look anything like the pilgrims I had been spending my evenings with for the past 3 weeks (all good pilgrims would probably have been in bed). From the looks I was getting from the other hotel guests, it was obvious I really didn´t belong there in my walking clothes and flip flops (that didn´t stop me from enjoying it though).
I had read somewhere that pilgrims are to detach from the material world. I have definitely experienced that in the last 3 weeks, however, I am having a hard time letting go of the material comforts. The contrast between sleeping a house made of mud and straw to staying in a luxurious parador boggles the mind. It is interesting to note though, that in the mud and straw house there was much laughter and camaraderie, more excepting of the people around you (even those that snored). At the Parador everyone looked so sad and preoccupied. I did not talk to one single person other than the waitress who was not very friendly and only talked to me because she had to.
I thought, how is it that this place which was originally built as a refuge for paupers and pilgrims in need was turned into a place for only the wealthy and elite?
Walked 19 km to Villadangos del Paramo. Arrived around 2:00. After showering and sitting for awhile I wished I would have gone further.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Sept. 21, 2010 - Puente de Vilarente to Leon
Left around 7:30, arrived at Leon around 10:30 (13 km). Not a very pleasant walk, lots of noisy traffic and sometimes you really had to pay attention not to get hit.
Took my time walking through Leon. Went to the Cathedral, which was suppose to be incredible, but didn´t feel anything so kept going. Ran into Jolinda & Al and chatted for a bit.
Had planned on going at least another 7 km today, however, while in Spain I wanted to stay in at least at one Parador. On the way out of Leon, walked passed Parador de San Marcos. Mass had just started in the chapel, so I went in. After mass I walked around the Cloister, It is so beautiful and peaceful. It is so quiet, I don´t want to leave.
It used to be called The Hospital de San Marcos and it was a hospice from the 12th to 15th centuries and served as a monastery and head quarters of the Knights of Santiago. It is now a luxury parador and much of the furniture is antique.
I really wanted to stay here so I asked how much (Paradors are usually really expensive). This one was 110 €, so I thought, I may never be this way again, so I am staying here. (It is without a doubt the most luxurious place I have ever stayed). I checked in about 1:00 and did not leave the grounds. There was so much to explore. This truly is an amazing place. Again, I feel like I have stepped back in time by about 500 years. I wish I had the words to explain how, as I sit in the garden in the Cloister, you can feel the presence of the people who have been here hundreds of years ago.
http://www.parador.es/en/cargarFichaParador.do;jsessionid=2F8E16F6987ACE61AF61406AE455412F?parador=102&LANG=en&SM=true&fechaDesde=&fechaHasta=
pdf about the Parador in Leon http://www.parador.es/recursos/doc/Fichas_paradores/Descripcion/Ingles/2119690185_392007111150.pdf
Took my time walking through Leon. Went to the Cathedral, which was suppose to be incredible, but didn´t feel anything so kept going. Ran into Jolinda & Al and chatted for a bit.
Had planned on going at least another 7 km today, however, while in Spain I wanted to stay in at least at one Parador. On the way out of Leon, walked passed Parador de San Marcos. Mass had just started in the chapel, so I went in. After mass I walked around the Cloister, It is so beautiful and peaceful. It is so quiet, I don´t want to leave.
It used to be called The Hospital de San Marcos and it was a hospice from the 12th to 15th centuries and served as a monastery and head quarters of the Knights of Santiago. It is now a luxury parador and much of the furniture is antique.
I really wanted to stay here so I asked how much (Paradors are usually really expensive). This one was 110 €, so I thought, I may never be this way again, so I am staying here. (It is without a doubt the most luxurious place I have ever stayed). I checked in about 1:00 and did not leave the grounds. There was so much to explore. This truly is an amazing place. Again, I feel like I have stepped back in time by about 500 years. I wish I had the words to explain how, as I sit in the garden in the Cloister, you can feel the presence of the people who have been here hundreds of years ago.
http://www.parador.es/en/cargarFichaParador.do;jsessionid=2F8E16F6987ACE61AF61406AE455412F?parador=102&LANG=en&SM=true&fechaDesde=&fechaHasta=
pdf about the Parador in Leon http://www.parador.es/recursos/doc/Fichas_paradores/Descripcion/Ingles/2119690185_392007111150.pdf
Sept. 20, 2010 - El Burgo ranero to Puente de Vilarente
Had a great sleep, was on the road by 7:30. Walked 13 km, took a half hour break in Reliegos, walked another 6 km to Mansilla de las Mulas. Had originally planned on staying here, but the next place is only 6 km and I still felt ok to walk. Stopped at a bar to take a break. All tables in the shade were full except one that had a couple of people sitting at it. I asked if I could join them. They said of course. After talking for a few minutes, the guy said, ¨you sound like you are from Canada¨. Turned out to be Don & Mary Kay from Ottawa. Several people have asked me if I´ve meet them. We chatted for about half an hour then I carried on.
Got to Puente de Vilarente about 2:00. The refugio is nice - looks almost like a resort. However, it is adjacent to a pig farm and every once in a while the wind lets you know it is there. This is not one of my favourite villages, almost wish I would have stayed in Mansilla. Met Riete from Holland. We sat in the courtyard for most of the afternoon/evening just writing in our journals and looking at our maps and guides.
Still feeling sad. Today is Pat´s funeral, is actually probably happening as I am writing this.
Had dinner with 7 people from France who did not speak English. I did not feel much like socializing anyway so that was ok.
Got to Puente de Vilarente about 2:00. The refugio is nice - looks almost like a resort. However, it is adjacent to a pig farm and every once in a while the wind lets you know it is there. This is not one of my favourite villages, almost wish I would have stayed in Mansilla. Met Riete from Holland. We sat in the courtyard for most of the afternoon/evening just writing in our journals and looking at our maps and guides.
Still feeling sad. Today is Pat´s funeral, is actually probably happening as I am writing this.
Had dinner with 7 people from France who did not speak English. I did not feel much like socializing anyway so that was ok.
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Sept. 19, 2010 - Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero
Ate breakfast with Gabriella & Wolfgang. Was on the road by 7:30. Arrived at El Burgo Ranero around 12:00 (about 18 km).
Felt very sad today. Read my email last night and was informed that my cousin Pat passed away on Thursday. My thoughts for most of the day were of her and her kids. My heart goes out to Jeff and Carla and their families. I remember how hard it was when my mom died.
Today as I was walking into the village I had to walk through a flock of sheep. Was surprised at how big some of them were, and it did not seem to bother them at all that I was there.
The albergue that I am staying in is made of straw and mud. It is actually very nice. The hospitalaro is very kind, even though I don´t understand a word he says. He carried my backpack up the stairs to my bed. He is a volunteer. There is no cost to stay here, you give a donation as you see fit.
Splurged today and spent 3 euros to was my clothes in the washing machine instead of washing them by hand. They sure do smell nice and fresh - what a treat!!
Felt very sad today. Read my email last night and was informed that my cousin Pat passed away on Thursday. My thoughts for most of the day were of her and her kids. My heart goes out to Jeff and Carla and their families. I remember how hard it was when my mom died.
Today as I was walking into the village I had to walk through a flock of sheep. Was surprised at how big some of them were, and it did not seem to bother them at all that I was there.
The albergue that I am staying in is made of straw and mud. It is actually very nice. The hospitalaro is very kind, even though I don´t understand a word he says. He carried my backpack up the stairs to my bed. He is a volunteer. There is no cost to stay here, you give a donation as you see fit.
Splurged today and spent 3 euros to was my clothes in the washing machine instead of washing them by hand. They sure do smell nice and fresh - what a treat!!
Sept. 18, 2010 - Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun
Didn´t get up till after 7:00 and took my time getting ready. What a luxury it is to be able to turn on the light and have the bathroom all to myself!
Had toast and cafe with Lill and her sister Karlin from Norway. They are taking a bus to Leon. They only have 2 weeks left and will have to average 30 km a day in order to make it to Santiago.
Started walking around 8:30. It was kind of nice not leaving with the masses. It was very quiet and I walked much slower than I normally do.
Stopped in Ledigo for cafe (7 km down the road) walked another 9 km and stopped for almost an hour and debated as to whether or not to stop for the day. The girl at the bar told me there was going to be a huge fiesta in the village tonight and the music will be quite loud until the early morning. I decided to go the extra 7.5 km to Sahgun. Arrived there about 3:00. Many of the farm buildings in this area are made of mud, straw and stones. Really feel like I have stepped back in time. A lot of people say this stretch is boring. I actually find it quite pleasant.
Ate dinner with a guy from California and Gabriella & Wolfgang from Germany. It was very nice. Have seen Gabriella & Wolfgang several times since the beginning of my journey so it was nice to spend the evening with them. We talked about some of the things that happen on the camino that is hard to explain. Some people call them miracles, some call them magic, but it is definitely not something you experience in your every day life.
It is almost 9:00 and I am ready for bed!
Had toast and cafe with Lill and her sister Karlin from Norway. They are taking a bus to Leon. They only have 2 weeks left and will have to average 30 km a day in order to make it to Santiago.
Started walking around 8:30. It was kind of nice not leaving with the masses. It was very quiet and I walked much slower than I normally do.
Stopped in Ledigo for cafe (7 km down the road) walked another 9 km and stopped for almost an hour and debated as to whether or not to stop for the day. The girl at the bar told me there was going to be a huge fiesta in the village tonight and the music will be quite loud until the early morning. I decided to go the extra 7.5 km to Sahgun. Arrived there about 3:00. Many of the farm buildings in this area are made of mud, straw and stones. Really feel like I have stepped back in time. A lot of people say this stretch is boring. I actually find it quite pleasant.
Ate dinner with a guy from California and Gabriella & Wolfgang from Germany. It was very nice. Have seen Gabriella & Wolfgang several times since the beginning of my journey so it was nice to spend the evening with them. We talked about some of the things that happen on the camino that is hard to explain. Some people call them miracles, some call them magic, but it is definitely not something you experience in your every day life.
It is almost 9:00 and I am ready for bed!
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